Days 3, 4 and 5: Welcome to Kotobabi Down

 “Welcome” is “Akwaaba” in Ghana, for the record.

I moved into to Rosa’s Compound in Kotobabi Down on my third day in Accra, on the 10^th of May. The compound is a magnificent white guest house located in Kotobabi Down – a district of Accra known as the “new town”, located near the New Airport District where I am working. The New Airport District is home to government offices, foreign agencies, and the best of Ghanaian street food.

Kotobabi is a neat cross-section between urban and rural life. The streets are red earth. Stalls line the main road (High Road) selling fresh fruit and vegetables. Tiny children peak out from all corners of the roadsides. Ghanaian goats (which are particularly miniature goats) amble down the street. And there is even a little grass, which is a rare feature for Accra.

Rosa’s Compound is run by a large wonderful woman named Rosa who owns two such houses in Accra. Ours is big, clean, wifi-ed, with thick white walls and a population of entirely expat students. Laura and I live together in the main building, with Tukeni and Val living across from us in the guest house (with our windows facing directly opposite. Good morning.)

Other compound residents include Ayolah who studied healthcare in the UK and is currently examining infant mortality in Ghana. Natalya, who is a master’s science student researching water purity. And Jeff from Wisconsin doing his PhD on West African slums. There is apparently also a mysterious German man doing his PhD in West African decolonization whom I am angling to meet.

Observation 3: The Market Place is Not for the Light-Hearted

The main market in Accra  is a ten minute trotro ride from Rosa’s. It’s hot, sweaty, and smells like fish. The stalls are crammed together, with each manager screaming for you to buy his yam not her yam. Shrimp, wine, laundry detergent, etc. is available cheap, fast, and competitively.

Haggling is not a thing I have learned. But Tukeni is pretty damn good at it. Peanut butter is also mysteriously sold by every stall. It sits in a plastic translucent jar, totally unmarked. But they swear it’s peanut butter. 

The market also has its casualties. Today I got goat in my hair. As the butcher cleaved a goat in two, so did my hair graciously receive what the goat’s insides had to offer. (Retroactive post: we never ate the goat.)

Observation 4: Everybody is Beautiful in Ghana

People in Ghana tell you that you’re beautiful all the time. It’s like a recreational activity. You walk down the street, and strangers by the roadside tell you how beautiful you are – men, women, young or old. Sometimes they take your face into their hands and tell you how beautiful you are. They should be on a Dove commercial or something.  Or maybe I should.

(Just kidding. Also, to be clear, that picture is a Dove advertisement.)

Observation 5: When it Rains, it Pours.

For real. Think monsoon season brought to you by old Bollywood.